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Per the app you can set up SET start and stop times for the away days and times. But they won't shorten or lengthen as the days do, they should fix this with an update. Alexa can setup a routine to do sunrise and sunset, question is will it turn on and off plugs to simulate away.

@@here4thegear621 Thank you for responding!

Speakers/Channels/Cones that can be driven. Some towers may have a single cone, some may have a pair of cones, some may have just a single set of plugs to drive those two cones, some may have the ability to drive them independently with two sets of plugs. Some may have a brass bridge/jumper so you can still run the cones together on a single channel. It just depends on how you want to word/explain it. But the first number will always be the number of channels you will run for speakers 2/5/7/9 ect and the one after the decimal is the number of dedicated subwoofer outputs you have normally 2 and then IF there is a third number that will be for ATMOS up-firing or elevated channels usually 2 or 4. So it would look something like 7.2.2 for a 9.2 channel capable receiver.

@@here4thegear621 so what you mean is.... I am correct!

@@robsayer8028 neither of us is wrong. As I explained it depends on the equipment. If you wanted to be more specific it would probably be better defined by channels.

The 555's would be the best of the 3 more than likely. You don't see three ways very often. But having a mid, vs just a high and a low speaker cone on a two way can help your speakers sound richer. Then you put a subwoofer into the equation and it's even better. Good luck!!

@@here4thegear621 thanks but currently I’m having a deal for ns 51 series package and ns f150 which one should I go for ?

Yes and no. It could provide power to the power supply/transformer. However if the computer is in standby or sleep mode it can't get it out.

Dave the 4k TV will just give you the 4K display (picture). It has nothing to do with the audio. The source of the audio is being passed up from the player, to the receiver, and then to the TV then down-sampled to 1080. HOWEVER, if you are using the TV as the SOURCE for your streaming services, and you are plugged into the eARC I/O HDMI on the TV, as long as your TV has HDMI 2.1 which (sorry to be negative) more than likely your is too old to have this it will carry ATMOS to the receiver. If you don't have the newer eARC you will only carry 5.1 channel back. This sounds like the scenario you are in, using the TV as your source at times.

That's a primarily analog input receiver. But it does have two optical inputs and one coax which are digital. More than likely you have to take your audio source to here for Dolby D to be enabled. Otherwise you are routing everything though analog.

True, everything wants to reset at 00:00. Two options, start a second timer at :01 and let it run to a set time. (cheapest and easiest) however the light would go off for 1 minute every night during the lapse of the timers. Or second option you hard wire a smart photocell somewhere in the house (how a plugged in night light works) that makes constant adjustment to the schedule of the outlet the lamp is plugged into.

It has worked at one point. Do you have a lot of devices connected to your wi-fi (as in maxed out)? Are you using an ultra generic term for the device vs specific (example: not just calling it "lamp" but "bedroom lamp")? If it still isnt working with voice make sure no doubt you can for sure turn it on/off with Kasa. Do this several times, this should indicate that it has a stable wi-fi connection. Then I would lose the device in Alexa, and let it find it again. If I ever take a plug out of service and store it for later i always try to get rid of it from Alexa and let it get found fresh even if it has the same name. Cause it might have a different address.

Glad it helped!!

Me too...it worked the first time I installed it. Then it constantly says cannot connect to server.

The way this chain should go (provided your video card has HDMI OUT) I would take that to the TV. Depending on the video card you may not even need the Fiber Optic cable. Some video cards carry audio as well. So you would simply run HDMI to the sound bar input from the PC and then from the sound bar output to the TV. This is the simplest and best way to make your scenario work.

Glad it was helpful. Sounds like it sunk in. You are correct on what the ARC channel/port is for!!

Appreciate it. :-)

Only way you could you use it in this aspect would be if it wasn't responding in the app. Because the plug it's plugged into wouldn't have power. But it COULD have power and your Wi-Fi lost power of connection. So you might want to be careful with that solution.

When just listening to music a two channel setup would do you just fine. Only step up would be if you wanted to bi-amp your speakers to drive them differently and enhance your listening experience.

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Correct! You would need eARC capabilities for higher channel count.

@@here4thegear621 Hi there! I got tv with eARC and sound bar with just ARC (hdcp 2.2) and it will only 5.1 ? But on the box sound bar lg sl10yg have Dolby Atmos and Dts-X ... Can I conect without ARC and get all of that fichers? Thanks

@@rustamlevandovskyi9153 Keep in mind eARC is a two way street. You will plug in your bluray player, and (most played) game console (if you have one) into the sound bar, so ALL that is coming OUT of that eARC and going to the TV is the pic/Video. Then the other way around, you will have a single cable from the eARC on the TV going to that and the only thing going to the sound bar from streaming services is the audio. Using eARC though never do both video and audio get transferred to the total end of the chain. To your actual question of not using eARC, step down would be using Fiber Optic, which wont give you all the channels needed for ATMOS. and DTS-X. It maxes out at 5.1 channel. You need 7.1 for true ATMOS

Oops. SL8YG is HDCP 2.2 with HDMI (ARC) 2.0 Atmos Soundbar

Thanks for the Response. First thing is the HDCP version. Conflicts there will start happening when you have a HDCP 2.2 BluRay going to to an HDCP 2.2 TV and then HDCP 2.0 soundbar. Or anytime one device in the mix isn't the same HDCP version. Most of the time this is just going to effect your picture getting through though, not the audio. Your scenario: From the specs of the devices I was able to locate, the SL8 (3.1.2) soundbar does support everything needed via HDMI, and the TV supports outputting the CODEC's (Atmos, DTS-X) so you would probably be fine using it as the source, but once we start passing picture, that's where we could have issues. Second scenario: HDMI 1.4 does support 7 channels. So since this soundbar is only 3.1 channels (L, R, C and Sub) 4 channels. I would just hook it up via fiber and be done. HDMI and HDCP are not even a factor then especially since you can't output the higher up audio's through it. Here you can see the specs for the SN6 amzn.to/32vEElM the SN8 amzn.to/3bVhbxr that has true upfiring speakers for ATMOS and DTS-X. I will be making another video soon on a little more breakdown of HDMI signal passing. Make sure you sub so you can see it.

Thank you Bipin!!

@@here4thegear621 My TV has 3x HDMI 2.0 (ARC;MHL). Does it support Dolby ATMOS? If Yes, could you help me with list of recommended devices?

The TV as the source is going to be the worst part of this scenario. If you are using the Apps *Netflix, Disney Plus ect) on the TV and then trying to send audio out. The highest you will get is 5.1 sound. You want to get a receiver like the one I am Linking to, and use it at the source for your Apps, this way you WILL have ATMOS support to your speakers. Then all you are doing is sending the video output to the TV. No matter which reciever you go with you will be assigning the ATMOS speakers. So even though these are 7.2 channel recievers you will really be running a 5.2.2 (first and last number is the speakers) and you will assign the other 2 channels as being height vs back. Marantz SR5014 (100 watts 2 channels driven) amzn.to/331eTZl Or if you don't need that much power you could and inputs you could go with the Yamaha 685 (80 watts to channels driven) amzn.to/2F672Se Also make sure you have a Blu-Ray player this one supports up scaling, but also true 4k. Yamaha BD-S681 amzn.to/3jO6r6C

If you do a receiver setup correctly you wont need earc. All of your sources (Cable, blu-ray, ect) will route through the receiver with ATMOS there going to your speakers. Then just a single HDMI cable out of the receiver to the TV for video. If you had a soundbar, sometimes that cable has to feed sound down to the soundbar from the the TV which acts as the sound source. then the other sources plug into the bar.

Appreciate it.